Beer Review: De Dolle Boskeun

Ever since I laid eyes on De Dolle's mascot (that plump little brouwer watching over their flagship Oerbier) I've been smitten. The De Dolle brouwers prove you don't have to be a monk to make world-class Belgian beer (and, if anyone wasn't already aware, Adam Avery is making a strong case that Belgian citizenship is no longer a requirement either). You know what, hell...I'll just go ahead and speak blasphemy by saying I like De Dolle's beers better than those of any other Belgian brewery, trappists included. Even if their Arabier does taste kinda like blood.

(Full disclosure/nota bene: my palate has tasted not of the esteemed Westvleteren 12--and so, for the purposes of this blog, I will give it and my fellow OSBers the benefit of the doubt and cap my ratings at ****1/2)

I've decided to drink the last of their beers that I've yet to try, the Boskeun.* The Boskeun is their Speciaal Paasbier, an Easter seasonal. Notice the Easter bunny (Boskeun translates to "rabbit of the wood") on the label. That means I'm a month or two behind schedule. I'm hoping a cantata ("Es ist euch gut, dass ich hingehe") Bach wrote for the fourth Sunday after Easter will fix this.

Poured into a Koningshoeven goblet (thanks due to Sampson for the OSB's diverse and plentiful glassware), the Boskeun gives way to a healthy, frothy head. More restrained, however, in this regard than some of the other De Dolle beers. The Oerbier, in particular, puffs up a lopsided head that looks at first like it might just walk right out of your glass. I generally let an Oerbier sort of do its thing for 15 minutes or so before risking a sip.

The even froth recedes in short order, leaving a pockmarked moonscape. I count about eleven rings, varying in size (but about an inch in diameter on average), holding firm amidst the regolith. Inside each bright white ring the bubbles remain quite active. Outside the rings, the head has settled down completely.

Faint nose is of Belgian yeast. Tastes like another good one. This isn't as distinctive as their Oerbier or Arabier. More of a traditional strong Belgian pale. But I like the relatively low level of carbonation for a beer of this kind; it lets the beer linger on the roof of your mouth. Just barely to the sweet side of bitter -- a welcome tension between the two. The alcohol is detectable, but perfectly content to share, and mostly concede my palate's attention. Not terribly complex, but little bit of a honeyed, lemony, cantaloupe feel with a dollop of Grand Marnier. Dries out somewhat at the finish, leaving a lingering tartness.

Verdict: ***. Not a standout (at least not this year's), but a good strong Belgian pale ale.

Purchased: Wells Discount Liquors, Baltimore, MD; $7.99 (11.6 oz)

ABV: 10%

*At least, of their regularly produced brews (the others being their Export Stout, Oerbier, Arabier, Stille Nacht, and Dulle Teve (a.k.a. "Mad Bitch")). I've heard talk of a De Dolle Cosmos Porter released in very limited quantities, keg only, several months ago.